A lot has happened for so many over the last year (year and a half).  

For me I have refocused my business concentrating on my established clients, their trainers and the brands I feel make the best and most consistent product while also offering me the support I need as a fitter.

In order to keep some things more simple (while making others a little more complicated) I've also decided to rebrand my saddle fitting under a new LLC.  This is largely for simple logistical reasons.  

What I really want to talk about is the pressures that have been placed on both the saddle fitting and veterinary fields as I have experience them.  While I no longer practice traditional veterinary medicine I'm feeling some of the pressures of increased demand and need from clients for care.  Fortunately there are more and more veterinarians becoming interested in and pursuing education in complementary modalities.

Saddle Fitting and Sales has been particularly interesting since we saw the pandemic become an earnest global issue.  Early on horse back riding was considered one of the more covid safe activities as we are outside, with good ventilation keeping a reasonable distance as a typical feature of our sport.  While many stayed at home, had a bit more time for their horses and, fortunately, in most cases, were able to maintain their income affording more time for their equine pursuits.  Many found themselves with a bit more disposable income as travel and other activities were not safe.  This created a greatly increased demand for horses, trainers, and of course saddles and tack.  This need has been felt across all of the brands I work with.

Combine this with global spread of a deadly virus.  Subsequent lock downs as people tested positive or became exposed to the virus have not helped either. In addition, all of the I work with are based out of England Brexit has created yet an additional layer of stress as the European sources for leather and other component parts suddenly became unpredictable.  All of this means we have seen a perfect storm of stressors on the saddlery system.

Ultimately I want you to understand is that it has been a hard year to meet the needs and demands of clients.  Saddles that took 5-6 weeks in production, in some cases, are being quoted at 21+ weeks while 12-14 seems to be pretty standard.  Used saddles are in short supply with high prices and everyone hopes to get their needs met yesterday.  The frustrations and demands on the industry means there are new opportunities in saddle manufacturing (however a master saddlery certification takes YEARS to obtain) but it also means that there have been a lot of difficult conversations and choices being made.  Stock is difficult to come by and its hard to predict needs months in advance.  Can we hope that this bubble in the horse industry doesn't burst while we plan our stock almost 6 months from now?  I am endlessly grateful for my understanding and wonderful clients as well as the support for all of the manufacturers I work with, but Ive seen the stress taking its toll on quite a few fitters as they exit the field.  Please be kind and understanding and know so much of this is still out of everyone's control. 

The term independent fitter gets thrown around a lot and means different things to different people.  For some it's a fitter who has no new saddles to sell or wholesale accounts, to others its a saddle fitter who runs their own business even if they are a brand rep.

For me, an independent fitter is a fitter who does not work for any companies directly.  Can you provide truly unbiased opinions on saddle fit while still accepting pay checks from other companies - sure.  Each company that hires brand representatives operate differently but many have sales goals and pressures placed on the fitter that make it hard to operate truly "independently".  Many of the brands also have limits or restrictions on if/when and how many other companies one of their representatives can sell for.  

For me calling myself an independent fitter means that I have no conscious or subconscious obligation to encourage you to buy any particular brand.  There is no additional pressure real or imagined to push you toward one brand or not.  This frees me up to advise and fit a variety of saddles and be honest when I don't feel comfortable fitting a saddle to a horse.  Being an independent fitter allows me to choose models and brands based on horse, rider and budget needs with no pressure from one individual company to promote their products specifically.  It means that I can choose the brands and models I sell and work on based on what seems to work in my hands and how well the companies support me and my clients if and when concerns, questions or issues arise.  It also means when you call me out you will get me, my knowledge base and a variety of saddles and options to order spanning over 10 different labels.  You will not get a "company" line.  It does not mean that I will know the ins and outs of every saddle brand produced but it does mean I have direct experience with quite a few different companies and models.

As an independent saddle fitter I have a degree of control that affords me the ability to set my schedule and attempt to find a work/life balance that suits me, it allows me to say "No" when I don't think I'm the right fit or my books are too full to be of service to new clients.  It allows me to offer riders what I think they need not what I think needs to be sold.  It allows me to attempt to control my inventory based on models and brands that seem to work best with no pressure to sell the newest thing.

What does hiring an Independent Saddle Fitter mean to you.  What do you hope and expect to gain when hiring a fitter?

Long time no post!
Its been quite a busy few years and I'm so very grateful for all of the horses and humans I've gotten to meet.

It's time for a bit of an adjustment.
I will continue the work I find so rewarding; Chiropractic, Acupuncture and Saddle Fitting.  That said I have been stretched to my limits recently and have been working on making some changes.

The first change is to my saddle line-up.  I have had the great pleasure to work with a number of companies both small and large.  I will continue to work with the ones that have consistently produced a product I'm happy to represent.  My considerations are based on both product quality as well as customer/fitter communication and service concerns.  Please visit this page for future updates on these brands and and examples of my favorite models.

The second change is the toughest.  I'm forever humbled by the many referrals and recommendations my clients give for my services. I love having a largely word of mouth business.  However, I find myself stretched thin with not enough of my energy to serve myself, my clients, my horses or most importantly my family to my standards.  With this in mind please know my schedule is consistently booking 4-8 weeks out.  Sometimes I simply can't get there as I hoped because you're not near my many other requests and so you may have to be delayed until I can fill a day in your region.  Please know that I frequently have well over 50 messages to attend to and if you haven't heard from me within 3-5 days it is not personal and I would appreciate a gentle nudge.  If this is unacceptable to you I understand and may be able to offer suggestions for care elsewhere.  Additionally, because of the demands on my schedule at this time I will no longer be accepting requests for appointments from new clients.  There may be some exceptions to this rule (such as a new client at a barn I have well established connections with).  Additionally, I'm hoping to arrange for a truck in location or two in order to save driving time and the pressure it puts on my schedule.  There may be opportunities to see new clients at these locations when I secure appropriate agreements.  Similarly, I am hoping to attend a number of shows as a vendor/sponsor.  At these shows I may also be able to work with new clients.  If my schedule allows for new clients in the future I will be sure to update.

Lastly please know how tough this past year has been on saddle fitters and veterinarians too.  We have benefitted in large ways from what has turned out to be a boom businesses in the pandemic economy.  This has been a mixed blessing as we find ourselves struggling to provide timely care and products. There have been many additional frustrations such as long lead times on saddles and related equipment due to increased demand, rolling shutdowns in the UK as well as throughout the world and of course component part shortages.  My clients and their equine partners are having to wait longer than ever for ordered saddles and I'm having to wait even longer for demo options.  Sometimes I haven't scheduled you because I know I don't have what you need and I'm hoping a demo saddle arrives or is returned soon.  Its been tough on all of us, I know I speak for the manufacturers too when I say that we all appreciate your continued patience.

Happy Riding!

There are about 3 million decisions to make when ordering a new saddle.  As a saddle fitter and someone who sells saddles from multiple companies I'm probably guilty of offering too many options!  Hopefully you are ready to make decisions - and remember there is no "perfect" saddle.  My goal is always to get the best combination of fit (for both you and the horse), style and budget.

Some of the things to consider:

• Adjustable tree vs custom built standard tree.
  • The only adjustable tree saddles I sell are built on the SimaTree.  These trees are quite innovative in material, styling and versatility.  They are more flexible than many adjustable trees - this allows for both the gullet width and the angle of the rails to change.  There are two lengths of plate for this tree providing longer and shorter tree points allowing for some flexibility in body style fit as well as general width.  Because these trees have interchangeable plates there is no ability to get a "hoop" tree fit.  The flexibility in the tree can occasionally pose some issues as it may transfer more motion between rider and horse.  When a rider is physically restricted or asymmetrical or the horse has certain physical issues or even very large movement this tree may not be a great fit.  That said most horses and riders do very well in saddles built on this tree.  If you're concerned about uneven pressures being transmitted through this tree be sure to check fit and add a prolite pad if needed.
    • Brands offering simatree saddle are;  Fairfax, Kent and Masters and Thorowgood 
  • Most of the non-adjustable trees in the saddles I have access to are on a wood frame (laminated beechwood being the most common).  These trees are often quite light and offer some flexion in the tree but are reinforced with metal plates and "springs."  While these saddles are considered non adjustable they can usually be put in a saddle press to be altered roughly one size.  Expanding and Narrowing these trees often or making drastic changes in width is not advisable as the metal parts of the tree may start to fail or if done poorly the tree may even become asymmetrical or twist.  The possible weakening of the metal will eventually cause failure of the tree, ultimately even allowing the wood parts to break.  It is also important to consider that the webbing, padding and leather covering the seat and tree were made for a certain size and dramatically changing that size will also affect these components.  The benefit to using a custom built wood tree is the ability to have a tree built with a specific width and shape in mind.  These trees tend to provide a bit more support between horse and rider and may be a better choice for high impact disciplines and weight shifting sports such as polo and gaming.
  • Some manufacturers use trees of composite materials.  They are not commonly used among the manufacturers I work with.  They tend to be fairly rigid trees though each version has their own properties including versions that are adjustable with special equipment.  They are typically built from molds that cost a lot of money to develop but are a consistent and reliable product. 

So you've decided adjustable or not (sometimes your horse or your tastes in saddle will make this decision for you).  Now lets consider some of the features of a saddle.​​

• Use Considerations:  Will you be using your saddle for Dressage, Jumping, Cross Country, perhaps a bit of all?  Will you have dedicated saddles for different disciplines and horses?
• Horse fit:
  • This primarily deals with the tree - width, shape and length are going to be the biggest considerations here
  • Panels define how the tree sits on the horse and can make or break the fit of your saddle.  
    • It is ideal to generally have a broader panel that helps to distribute the weight of the rider over a wider surface area.  Broader horses with less angle to their back can get away with less panel.
    • Depth of panel is very important.  High withered horses will tend to need deeper rear panels and often the support of gussets upfront.  Downhill horses may need a pretty slim panel in the rear while broad horses in general will require a lower profile in the panel throughout.  
      • Jump panels are almost always thinner and more "close contact" than dressage saddles and they typically have flatter trees (more on this later).
      • Foam panels will likewise be a lot thinner (while a couple of the companies I work with produce foam paneled saddles - I am unlikely to recommend these for a variety of reasons - see previous blog post on flocking)
    • It is not advisable to try to alter the shape of a panel on a saddle after manufacturing.  (Adding, removing or completely replacing wool is considered normal maintenance.)
    • Fairfax and some kent and masters saddles have added the pressure reducing material "prolite" to their panel lining
    • Another Panel option most of the manufacturers I work with offer is having your saddle made with "serge".  Serge panels are panels that are constructed in part with felt (instead of leather).  The part of the panel touching your saddle pad (or in some disciplines - the horse's back directly) is made with a durable wool weave. (This does not refer to the panel contents).
      • Serge panels offer a few benefits over wool: they breath better than leather and clients often report that their horse seems less sweaty after a warm weather ride or less "cold backed" in a cool weather.
      • The panels likely conform to the horse better and more quickly
        • This can help in the case of more barrel shaped horses. 
      • In some of the Hunter disciplines where saddles are placed directly on the horse's back (commonly in the UK) these panels are favored as the wool is said to interlock with the horse's hair giving a bit more security against saddle slippage too.
      • The most notable negative features of a serge panel include the increased time for cleaning (a stiff brush will help clean the wool and rid it of hair/debris) and decreased resale value - truly just because these panels aren't common and well understood.  Additionally, If Serge panels are not cared for in storage or use they will distort more than a leather panel would.
  • Rider Concerns:  From many of the companies I work with almost everything can be customized to suit the riders need and style
    • Twist:  Saddle twist is a hot button topic among riders these days.  In general twists range from very narrow to quite broad.  The twist generally describes the thinnest point in the seat/tree.  I would add that it is the thinnest part in the seat in contact with the rider - often near the stirrup bar apparatus.  
      • Twist preferences between narrow and wide will be quite variable from rider to rider.  Rider characteristics that influence twist preferences include, height, ethnic origin, width of pelvis, thigh length, stirrup length preferences, fitness as well as physical limitations.
      • Location of the twist's narrowest point in reference to the seat can be placed more forward or farther back by saddler in relation to the design of the tree and desired balance point too!
      • The twist matters to the horse too!  Typically a saddle with a narrow twist will have much more angular and closely placed rails and will not fit a broad backed horse well.  Conversely a broader twist may have rails that are too flat for the more narrow or withery horse.  
        • One of the biggest fitting stalemates I run into with riders is their preferences for twist shape.  It seems that most riders trend toward wanting a narrow twist but when faced with a broad horse there are a few things a saddle manufacturer can do.  The tree can have the supportive webbing laid down in a manner that will narrow the twist and extra foam can be added and sculpted to build a more narrow twist.  Both of these changes will bring the seat of the rider slightly farther away from the horse.
    • Length of seat:  This is another fitting stalemate I often run into.
      • Generally the rider needs to be comfortable in their seat with enough room in front and behind them to be able to have some degree of maneuverability and maintain proper balance and alignment.
      • The length of the tree typically defines the length of the seat.  Your horse should only bear your weight over their thoracic spine - this means that each horse only has a certain maximum tree length.  The size of your horse may have little to do with the length of tree they can accommodate, their conformation is a large part of this consideration
        • My nearly 17.3hh thoroughbred has a deep scapula and a relatively short top line - he limits me to a 17.5" jump saddle in most models
        • Many saddle manufacturers using wood trees can angle the cantle back to allow for a bit more room in the seat for the rider without extending the length of the tree.  (However, this will decrease the depth of the seat.)
    • Depth of seat: The last of the Rider vs Horse fitting stalemates I run into.
      • Flat seats have flat trees and tend to suit flatter horses (some panel alterations can help).
      • Deep seats are often on more curved trees and tend to suit horses with a higher wither (the way a cantle is placed on a tree can allow the manufacturer to create a deep seat on a flatter tree).
    • Balance of the seat:  Simply put the seat should be level and balanced.  Even minor changes in the angle of the seat (away from level) will affect rider position and pressure distribution.  A well fit saddle will have a level/balanced seat.
      • If the balance is tipped forward as the pommel of the saddle comes down (typically a too wide tree) the riders seat bones will tend to come forward causing a bit of a feel of being collapsed and a need to fight to maintain good posture (great work out for the abs, not the easiest way to balance on a moving animal!)
      • If the balance is tipped back as the pommel of the saddle rises (typically a too narrow tree but could be a withery horse with too flat a saddle etc) the rider's seat bones will tend to fall to the rear of the saddle creating a desire to close the hip and "catch up" with the motion.
    • Flap shape and length.  
      • Flap shape is typically defined by the model chosen, however, many manufacturers can move a flap forward even in dressage saddles.
      • Length is generally easily altered to suit a shorter or taller rider as needed.
    • Block position and shape.
      • Again, this is often defined by the model chosen, however many manufactures are able to move the block position or change the size and shape as needed. Velcro blocks are a great solution allowing the interchange of block types and position can be easily altered.
        • Velcro blocks are extremely sturdy and tightly adhere to saddles.  If you don't take your block off and roll it around in hay or dirt your block will stay on your saddle throughout any use you can subject it to.
        • Models with molded or contoured knee pads will usually have less flexibility in block options.
    • Styling:  If that weren't enough now you have to chose leathers and colors!
      • Budget?  A lower budget may limit you to more "off the rack" classic options Nothing wrong with that!
        • Many of the customization options are considered "upgrades" and are at an additional cost.
      • Calf covered?  Buffalo hide? Printed leather?
      • How about a favorite color?  (you might be surprised in the range of accent colors available!)
      • Do you like traditional looking or want some bling?  (fancy stitching, patent, crystals, snake skin?)
      • Frank Baines has a great diagram detailing the many parts of the saddle that can be customized by most manufacturers
        • http://www.frankbaines.com/information/custom-options/

​Confused yet?  Let me help!

What you will need:

1. Graph paper or some other paper with a scale and straight lines ideally - I'm always happy to send out my tracing forms.  Most people will scan and e-mail the tracing so two 8.5x11 (standard letter size) pieces of graph paper taped together on the 11" side to make an 11x17" certainly works.

2.  A flexible ruler or flexible curve - can be purchased in any office supply store in the drafting section or on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/18-Inch-45cm-Flexible-Curve/dp/B005LIG06Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468800831&sr=8-4&keywords=flexible+curve

​3.  A tool to put temporary marks on your horse's back.  I use chalk on dark colored horses usually or painters tape on lighter colored horses - painters tape works on any of them though.

4.  A pen and a short ruler (ruler optional but makes life easier - I have one thats about 6" long)

5.  Away to take digital photos - phone photos work well!

Steps:
1.  With your horse on a flat surface and as square as they will stay (front end is most important to be square - resting any legs is not OK) mark your horses back as seen in the picture below:  You will want to identify rear/caudal edge of the scapula and mark that (with your tape or chalk), make a mark 2" back from the scapula, 5" back from the scapula, at the lowest point of the back and at the edge of the last rib where it meets the spine.  (to find the last rib put your hand lightly in the hollow of the flack and bring it forward toward the shoulder, you should meet the last rib, follow the arc of the rib up close to the spine.  Note the rib does not follow an arc all the way forward to the spine but rather straightens out a few inches from the spine).

2. Using your flexible curve you will drape the curve over the horses back at each of the marks behind the scapula and mold it to the back.  Carefully remove each time and trace on to the graph paper.  Trace the lowest border of the curve (the part touching the horse) and make sure you keep the right side on the right and the left on the left.  Label each spot - I use A-D with A being closest to the scapula.

3.  Again using your flexible curve straighten it out and hold it horizontal and as level as possible placing the 0" mark at the scapular mark and measuring the height of each subsequent location that you've traced both in height from the back to the flexible curve and from the 0" on the flexible curve.  Remember the first two marks should be pretty close to 2" and 5".  If you don't have a short ruler but have a pen with markings you can use this to "measure" the height.  (unless you're very good at remember all of these numbers - write them down)

4.  Now shape the flexible curve to the topline of your horse down the very middle of the spine.  Again keeping the 0" mark at the level of the first mark indicating the back of the scapula.  Carefully transfer this mold of the toppling to the graph paper marking where each of your tracings have been taken and making sure to keep the height from the horizontal as accurate as possible using your previous measurements.  Mark on this line where each of your tracings were made (again ABCD works well).

5.  Congrats you've done your first tracing!  Now just take some pictures - great if you take them with the markings still on the horse.  Take one from each side and over the back from the highest point of the pelvis forward again trying to keep the horse on level ground and relatively square.  These pictures just help us understand the general shape of your horse as tracings can be a bit hard to understand fully without the real world horse too.

See some examples of my tracings below and some of the pictures I've taken to have custom saddles made for clients.

As I work on reflocking a used saddle and am frustrated by the materials used - I decided my I needed to share a few thoughts on the topic.

There are many options in "flocking" a saddle: 

• Wool:  the two most common types of wool uses are lambswool and jacobs wool
• Artificial Flock:  This is commonly some kind of acrylic type fiber, similar to what is found in throw pillows.  Historically things such as carpet fibers have been used too
• Foam:  There are many types of foam available and used
• Air:  Two main bladder types are cair and flair 

Why I like wool:
Wool is a natural fiber that is easily removed adjusted and replaced.  There is some degree of resistance to changes in consistency and temperature with heat and cold and it has decent shock absorption properties and generally holds up well to weight bearing.  Jacobs wool is my preferred wool as it has longer less straight fibers which make it easier to use, decreases lumps and seems to hold up a bit longer to compression.  Lambs wool is commonly referred to as white wool.  It may be a bit more common with manufacturers than jacobs wool and is certainly easier to get ahold of for saddle fitters who are doing flocking adjustments.  In my hands I find it tends to bunch up a bit more but overall has good flocking properties too.  One thing that I find very frustrating is when saddle fitters use a different type of wool to make adjustments on the saddle than the saddle is mostly flocked with.  This seems to be one  common reason I've run into for lumpy feeling wool saddles.  The main argument I see against wool is regarding the cost of maintenance and upkeep.

Artificial flock:
This is a cheap alternative to wool and I believe it just doesn't work as well.  I find it compresses more quickly, perhaps making your panels hard sooner and generally just isn't as forgiving or resilient as traditional wool.  The good news is panels made for this type of flocking can generally be easily converted to wool

Foam:
Foam has its benefits - the most obvious of which is the fact that it shouldn't change a whole lot with use and needs little upkeep if any.  Unfortunately in reality foam panel are a bit of a catch 22 as they are not adjustable and rarely are they convertible to wool (the panels just simply aren't deep enough to allow an adequate amount of wool).  Almost all foams used even in the highest end saddles are not rated for weight bearing and are often more of an insulating type technology.  This has two main implications 1.  The foam will indeed breakdown and be affected over time with riding and 2. Claims of shock absorption and pressure distribution is questionable.  Foam also has the potential to heat up and the "insulating" affect of the foam against your horses back is often less than desirable.  I'm always entertained by claims of "NASA developed" product in panels.  When in space are you worried about weight bearing applications?

Air:
​As with many trends air has fallen out of favor.  There are still some Flair and Cair panel saddles out there that can work well for many horses depending on how they are used and maintained but in general the shock absorption and pressure dissipation is lacking when compared with other products.   (Think of a inflated ball on a cold day - doesnt the shock of kicking it or catching it resonate throughout your body?)   The best applications of air bladders seem to be combined with wool.  Be careful of brands who have more than one bladder throughout the panel and have an overlap or gap in spots!

​You'd be surprised at what even the most expensive saddles come flocked with.  Be sure to educate yourself when choosing a saddle brand and a saddle fitter.  It is wise to see what kind of wool your saddle fitter uses  to flock saddles.  (I keep both lambswool and jacobs wool in stock - because, as previously mentioned, I really dislike the lumpy effect one gets when you mix these two products together!)

​

​

Did you know?!

The Jacob Sheep is an older breed with rams having a unique 4+ horned head.

I had a great time visiting NY and some of my favorite horses and people followed up by a very informative, fun and wet trip to Lexington Kentucky to watch some of the rolex 3 day and talk to representatives from a a couple saddle companies I work with. 

I met with Hastilow USA's saddle fitter Amber at Rolex - she was able to show me some of the new and more popular traditional treed saddles.  Our area in the Pac NW has had a good representation of the Concept line, and I'm happy to continue that tradition, but it has been fun learning more about what other saddles Hastilow has to offer in a traditional wood spring tree format with even more custom fit options available than the Simatree can be made to.  The Impression Pro dressage saddle has been very popular and is a modern take on the previously very popular impression (still available).  I'm very excited about their new "Prism" line of saddles though.  The Prism monoflap jump is a really lovely looking saddle with many great features and the hastilow quality we have all come to expect from the brand.  Hope to have more information and pictures on these saddles soon!

I got to spend the most time with the Black Country Saddle representatives and makers at rolex.  They were formally introducing their new Dante line of saddles to the US and it was a great hit!  These saddles are on the tried and true jump tree that has been making horses and riders comfortable for a very long time.  After much careful consideration and work they have adjusted the way they strain the saddle seat on the dante.  The changes allow for an elegant slim and supportive cantle with a bit more open of a seat and a more forward balance point.  This beautiful design is very well suited to the hunters/jumpers and even eventers allowing a close contact feel with a supportive yet versatile seat design.  I was able to talk my way into bringing one home to offer to all of you as a demo saddle!  The Dante dressage is an equally beautiful option - I may own one of these for my own horse very soon!  They have made similar changes to the way the standard Eloquence tree is strained, again achieving the more modern narrow and forward twist without compromising comfort or depth of seat.  I particularly liked the option with the external "carlow" blocks.

I was able to touch, feel and talk about some of their more tried and true models and have gotten even more information on the way they design and adjust their trees with some exciting options for short backed horses and taller/bigger riders.  They had a few saddles on demo with beautiful and fun welt and contrast stitching options!

As a bit of a side trip Andy and I went to visit a few of the historic thoroughbred farms in the area on formal tours.  It was pretty great to listen to one of America's oldest thoroughbred farm owners at one of the more private farms as well as listen to a stallion manager talk about the farm he works at - one of the most influential farms in thoroughbred breeding (All of my horses have no less than 4 of their previous sires in their pedigrees!)

Hope you all enjoy the pictures I've included.  Feel free to contact me for more information on any of the saddles or really anything else I might be able to help you with!

As I build my website and online presence I figured it was time to add a Blog.  I'm happy to look into, explore and comment on any questions you may have regarding Acupuncture, Chiropractic/Spinal Manipulation, Saddle fit and of course general veterinary care as appropriate.

If you have any Blog topic suggestions let me know!  I think I will start out with some of the most common discussions I have with clients on a day to day basis, but I'd love some interesting out of the box thoughts and questions!