So you want a custom saddle?

There are about 3 million decisions to make when ordering a new saddle.  As a saddle fitter and someone who sells saddles from multiple companies I'm probably guilty of offering too many options!  Hopefully you are ready to make decisions - and remember there is no "perfect" saddle.  My goal is always to get the best combination of fit (for both you and the horse), style and budget.

Some of the things to consider:

• Adjustable tree vs custom built standard tree.
  • The only adjustable tree saddles I sell are built on the SimaTree.  These trees are quite innovative in material, styling and versatility.  They are more flexible than many adjustable trees - this allows for both the gullet width and the angle of the rails to change.  There are two lengths of plate for this tree providing longer and shorter tree points allowing for some flexibility in body style fit as well as general width.  Because these trees have interchangeable plates there is no ability to get a "hoop" tree fit.  The flexibility in the tree can occasionally pose some issues as it may transfer more motion between rider and horse.  When a rider is physically restricted or asymmetrical or the horse has certain physical issues or even very large movement this tree may not be a great fit.  That said most horses and riders do very well in saddles built on this tree.  If you're concerned about uneven pressures being transmitted through this tree be sure to check fit and add a prolite pad if needed.
    • Brands offering simatree saddle are;  Fairfax, Kent and Masters and Thorowgood 
  • Most of the non-adjustable trees in the saddles I have access to are on a wood frame (laminated beechwood being the most common).  These trees are often quite light and offer some flexion in the tree but are reinforced with metal plates and "springs."  While these saddles are considered non adjustable they can usually be put in a saddle press to be altered roughly one size.  Expanding and Narrowing these trees often or making drastic changes in width is not advisable as the metal parts of the tree may start to fail or if done poorly the tree may even become asymmetrical or twist.  The possible weakening of the metal will eventually cause failure of the tree, ultimately even allowing the wood parts to break.  It is also important to consider that the webbing, padding and leather covering the seat and tree were made for a certain size and dramatically changing that size will also affect these components.  The benefit to using a custom built wood tree is the ability to have a tree built with a specific width and shape in mind.  These trees tend to provide a bit more support between horse and rider and may be a better choice for high impact disciplines and weight shifting sports such as polo and gaming.
  • Some manufacturers use trees of composite materials.  They are not commonly used among the manufacturers I work with.  They tend to be fairly rigid trees though each version has their own properties including versions that are adjustable with special equipment.  They are typically built from molds that cost a lot of money to develop but are a consistent and reliable product. 

So you've decided adjustable or not (sometimes your horse or your tastes in saddle will make this decision for you).  Now lets consider some of the features of a saddle.​​

• Use Considerations:  Will you be using your saddle for Dressage, Jumping, Cross Country, perhaps a bit of all?  Will you have dedicated saddles for different disciplines and horses?
• Horse fit:
  • This primarily deals with the tree - width, shape and length are going to be the biggest considerations here
  • Panels define how the tree sits on the horse and can make or break the fit of your saddle.  
    • It is ideal to generally have a broader panel that helps to distribute the weight of the rider over a wider surface area.  Broader horses with less angle to their back can get away with less panel.
    • Depth of panel is very important.  High withered horses will tend to need deeper rear panels and often the support of gussets upfront.  Downhill horses may need a pretty slim panel in the rear while broad horses in general will require a lower profile in the panel throughout.  
      • Jump panels are almost always thinner and more "close contact" than dressage saddles and they typically have flatter trees (more on this later).
      • Foam panels will likewise be a lot thinner (while a couple of the companies I work with produce foam paneled saddles - I am unlikely to recommend these for a variety of reasons - see previous blog post on flocking)
    • It is not advisable to try to alter the shape of a panel on a saddle after manufacturing.  (Adding, removing or completely replacing wool is considered normal maintenance.)
    • Fairfax and some kent and masters saddles have added the pressure reducing material "prolite" to their panel lining
    • Another Panel option most of the manufacturers I work with offer is having your saddle made with "serge".  Serge panels are panels that are constructed in part with felt (instead of leather).  The part of the panel touching your saddle pad (or in some disciplines - the horse's back directly) is made with a durable wool weave. (This does not refer to the panel contents).
      • Serge panels offer a few benefits over wool: they breath better than leather and clients often report that their horse seems less sweaty after a warm weather ride or less "cold backed" in a cool weather.
      • The panels likely conform to the horse better and more quickly
        • This can help in the case of more barrel shaped horses. 
      • In some of the Hunter disciplines where saddles are placed directly on the horse's back (commonly in the UK) these panels are favored as the wool is said to interlock with the horse's hair giving a bit more security against saddle slippage too.
      • The most notable negative features of a serge panel include the increased time for cleaning (a stiff brush will help clean the wool and rid it of hair/debris) and decreased resale value - truly just because these panels aren't common and well understood.  Additionally, If Serge panels are not cared for in storage or use they will distort more than a leather panel would.
  • Rider Concerns:  From many of the companies I work with almost everything can be customized to suit the riders need and style
    • Twist:  Saddle twist is a hot button topic among riders these days.  In general twists range from very narrow to quite broad.  The twist generally describes the thinnest point in the seat/tree.  I would add that it is the thinnest part in the seat in contact with the rider - often near the stirrup bar apparatus.  
      • Twist preferences between narrow and wide will be quite variable from rider to rider.  Rider characteristics that influence twist preferences include, height, ethnic origin, width of pelvis, thigh length, stirrup length preferences, fitness as well as physical limitations.
      • Location of the twist's narrowest point in reference to the seat can be placed more forward or farther back by saddler in relation to the design of the tree and desired balance point too!
      • The twist matters to the horse too!  Typically a saddle with a narrow twist will have much more angular and closely placed rails and will not fit a broad backed horse well.  Conversely a broader twist may have rails that are too flat for the more narrow or withery horse.  
        • One of the biggest fitting stalemates I run into with riders is their preferences for twist shape.  It seems that most riders trend toward wanting a narrow twist but when faced with a broad horse there are a few things a saddle manufacturer can do.  The tree can have the supportive webbing laid down in a manner that will narrow the twist and extra foam can be added and sculpted to build a more narrow twist.  Both of these changes will bring the seat of the rider slightly farther away from the horse.
    • Length of seat:  This is another fitting stalemate I often run into.
      • Generally the rider needs to be comfortable in their seat with enough room in front and behind them to be able to have some degree of maneuverability and maintain proper balance and alignment.
      • The length of the tree typically defines the length of the seat.  Your horse should only bear your weight over their thoracic spine - this means that each horse only has a certain maximum tree length.  The size of your horse may have little to do with the length of tree they can accommodate, their conformation is a large part of this consideration
        • My nearly 17.3hh thoroughbred has a deep scapula and a relatively short top line - he limits me to a 17.5" jump saddle in most models
        • Many saddle manufacturers using wood trees can angle the cantle back to allow for a bit more room in the seat for the rider without extending the length of the tree.  (However, this will decrease the depth of the seat.)
    • Depth of seat: The last of the Rider vs Horse fitting stalemates I run into.
      • Flat seats have flat trees and tend to suit flatter horses (some panel alterations can help).
      • Deep seats are often on more curved trees and tend to suit horses with a higher wither (the way a cantle is placed on a tree can allow the manufacturer to create a deep seat on a flatter tree).
    • Balance of the seat:  Simply put the seat should be level and balanced.  Even minor changes in the angle of the seat (away from level) will affect rider position and pressure distribution.  A well fit saddle will have a level/balanced seat.
      • If the balance is tipped forward as the pommel of the saddle comes down (typically a too wide tree) the riders seat bones will tend to come forward causing a bit of a feel of being collapsed and a need to fight to maintain good posture (great work out for the abs, not the easiest way to balance on a moving animal!)
      • If the balance is tipped back as the pommel of the saddle rises (typically a too narrow tree but could be a withery horse with too flat a saddle etc) the rider's seat bones will tend to fall to the rear of the saddle creating a desire to close the hip and "catch up" with the motion.
    • Flap shape and length.  
      • Flap shape is typically defined by the model chosen, however, many manufacturers can move a flap forward even in dressage saddles.
      • Length is generally easily altered to suit a shorter or taller rider as needed.
    • Block position and shape.
      • Again, this is often defined by the model chosen, however many manufactures are able to move the block position or change the size and shape as needed. Velcro blocks are a great solution allowing the interchange of block types and position can be easily altered.
        • Velcro blocks are extremely sturdy and tightly adhere to saddles.  If you don't take your block off and roll it around in hay or dirt your block will stay on your saddle throughout any use you can subject it to.
        • Models with molded or contoured knee pads will usually have less flexibility in block options.
    • Styling:  If that weren't enough now you have to chose leathers and colors!
      • Budget?  A lower budget may limit you to more "off the rack" classic options Nothing wrong with that!
        • Many of the customization options are considered "upgrades" and are at an additional cost.
      • Calf covered?  Buffalo hide? Printed leather?
      • How about a favorite color?  (you might be surprised in the range of accent colors available!)
      • Do you like traditional looking or want some bling?  (fancy stitching, patent, crystals, snake skin?)
      • Frank Baines has a great diagram detailing the many parts of the saddle that can be customized by most manufacturers
        • http://www.frankbaines.com/information/custom-options/

​Confused yet?  Let me help!

A traditional wood tree

Another angle of the same tree, note the metal reinforced head/pommel, the angle of the rails and cantle as well as the metal "springs" (a bit like a leaf spring).

The gullet of a  SimaTree saddle.